The business in smock wearing; Now, before and the future

To many people, the culture of Northern Ghana is better portrayed with the wearing of smocks. But not all indigenes of that part of the country can afford the outfit as huge patronage and rising cost of materials for smock making is stretching the price of the Northern costume beyond the reach of ordinary northern folks. Maxwell Adombila Akalaare looks at the then and now of the smock as a northern cultural attire and a business adventure


GONE are the days when smock wearing in Northern Ghana was reserved for events such as festivals, funerals, marriage ceremonies and all other events that can be associated with the area’s cutural setup.


However, modern globalisation coupled with most people’s crave for fashion has now demystified those perceptions - making the wearing of smock a casual attire for everyday events.

More and more people both within and outside that catchment area are now craving for the smock, not for customary reasons but for reasons related to fashion, show-off and globalisation. And that is giving designers of the outfit a reason to smile but unfortunately, it has become a headache to some ordinary indigenes because the prices of the once affordable attire has skyrocketted beyond their purchasing powers.



THE THEN AND NOW

In times past, the wearing of smock in any of the three regions of Northern Ghana was quickly associated with old age, wealth, affluence, tradition, wars and, in most cases, chieftancy status.

The smock is a treasured attire for chiefs from northern Ghana

And for the chiefs and old people who treasured smock as the only dress for occassional events such as wars, festivals, funerals, marriage ceremonies and the like, the dress was incomplete without a loose thigh-tight leg sort of pair of trousers and an oval kind of hat to match. Such a combination showed that the one wearing it is really up to the business of wearing smocks and the occassion indeed demands such.

The smock, otherwise known as Fugu, Batakali or Danshika, was a treasured dress that was worn rarely, washed once in a blue moon and only used when the ocassion necessitated it. Not all could wear it. And not all even thought of wearing it.

Some people, according to thier gods, were professed to wear certain smocks of specifc designs. And once that professed smock is made for the person concerned, it is treasured as another god, worned carefully and stored strategically.

For those who looked beyond the cloth called smock, black smocks were often associated with local medicines and with the few people who have been professed to wear such a colour. White signified happiness and all the good things that comes with it while combined colours had different interpretations depending on the event.

The sewing and designing of the smock was also not a profession for the young; it was a preserve of the old and people of certain family lineage. Such people valued their job so much that they, from time to time, pride themselves of having dressed chiefs of various origins and ages as well as people of societal influence with the best crafted smocks and their special pair of trousers to match.

These perceptions of smock sewing not being an all for all job thus made it impossible for some people to view the activity as a business. Rather, it was seen more of a treasured heritage than a commercial venture.

Modernisation is, however, changing things, atleast, for the better.

The long-held perceptions in associating the wearing and crafting of smocks with cultures and traditions are now fading off in today’s fashion era where modern globalisation coupled with most people’s crave for fashion has compelled many to patronise attires that better suit their bodies rather than sticking to traditions and cultures.



Modernisation is changing the trend in smock wearing


Unlike before, many people are now using the smock, which is made of handloomed strips of Kente fabrics sewed by hand or machine, for social events such as church activities, parties, film acting, and lately, as a political campaign attire by most politicians particularly when they vist any of the three northern regions or found themselves among northners.

The NPP’s 2012 Presidential Candidate, Nana Akuffo Addo is noted for his direheart love for this Northern costume. Former President Jerry John Rawlings is also noted for liking the modern combination of a smock over long sleeves. But even before them, the declaration of our country as an independent state from British colonial rule was marked with Dr Kwame Nkrumah and others wearing a smock.



THE BUSINESS ANGLE


The current rising demand for the smock by people of various cultures, origins, ages and status has now created business opportunities for many people. The rising demand is, however, pushing prices of the dress up and those who make them are happy. But this phenomenon is at the displeasure of some northern indigenes; They see the hiking prices for their once treasured attire as a potential threat that could drive cultural heritage to a point of extinction.

That notwithstanding, most indegenes think the hiking demand must continue, at least for the benefit of creating employment for the teaming youth while encouraging cultural diversity.

Talking about employment generation through smock, northern culture had until now frowned upon opening up the profession of smock designing to all ‘manner of people’.

In some parts of northern Ghana’s culture, the profession of smock sewing was no child’s play; it was a pass-on business by certain families that must be treasured and rolled over to the latest generations in those lines. As a result, not all dared to take up jobs in that area.

Mr Amadu Lunar who sews smocks at the Bolga Smock Market is a beneficiary of such a heritage. And he is surely passing it over to his younger generation.

Mr Lunar has, however, realised that the action goes beyond cutural heritage; it is a business that must be treasured as smock wearing was. And in the face of that, Mr Lunar said he would have to face several challenges in an attempt to keep up to the current pace.

In enumerating the cahllenges facing those who sew smocks in the market, Mr Lunar said “the cost of materials is rising so fast and that is causing us a lot. We do not have enough money to buy more materials, more colours, machines and all that is needed.”

The smock will forever define the status of northern chiefs

To the government and all NGOs that may desire to support the designers, Mr Lunar said “they should help subsidise the price of the materials. We need modern machines and training too.”

And once that is done, Mr Lunar believed “more and more jobs will be created in the areas of sewing, marketing and weaving of the material.

His counterpart, Mr Victor Ayamndoo Anaambodey noted that their cash-trapped nature was preventing them from sewing in variety.

“We need to sew many colours, hand and machine and long and short sleeves but if you don’t have the money to do all that what do you do,” he asked.

Mr Anaambodey’s request to whoever that cares is simple; “benevolent institutions should help invest in us and market the attire to more people. If they do, they will not only be helping us here but the nation and the youth as a whole.”